Five days is a pretty short vacation, but this was all that was available when we pulled calendars for our two teenagers, one almost teenager, and two busy parents. So we needed someplace not too terribly far away, but with cool weather, outdoor beauty and good reasons to be off devices.
We chose Banff and it was a great call. We left Austin in the 90s. We arrived in Canada in the 60s. We stopped at a Tim Horton’s on the drive to the hotel and our oldest, Chloe, announced that she would move to Canada. (A box of Timbits can apparently change your life).
The Logistics (Easier Than You Think)
Calgary is the gateway. Fly in, pick up your rental car, and you’re in Banff in just over an hour. That’s it. One short drive and you’re inside a beautiful national park. (Quick tip – you’ll probably need a Parks Canada pass on the way into Banff.)
Banff Town: The Perfect Base Camp
The Town of Banff reminds me of the great Colorado ski towns like Telluride or Steamboat Springs. It’s walkable, lively, and fun to just be in. The main strip has restaurants and shops and doesn’t have that over-touristy feel, which I appreciate. We stayed at the Moxy, and for a family with teens, it was a great call. Marriott’s Moxy brand leans into a fun, youthful vibe…you check in at the bar complete with buckets of pretzels and gummy worms. The lobby had music going with people hanging out, and breakfast came from what was essentially a food truck setup. The rooms are small and stripped down, but we split across two rooms and it worked perfectly.
What we did in Banff town:
The gondola up Sulphur Mountain is a must. At the top, we had lunch at Sky Bistro with its floor-to-ceiling windows looking out over six different mountain ranges.
We rented bikes from the Moxy and rode along the Bow River, right in town. This was an unexpected highlight of the trip…easy, beautiful, great paved path. We went as a family but I would be comfortable with the kids biking on their own.
My strongest tip when traveling with kids is to not let anyone get too hungry. We had an extended lunch at The Grizzly House, a fondue institution that’s been in Banff since 1967. You cook your own meat on hot stones at the table. They have exotic options on the menu (alligator, rattlesnake) but we played it safe with chicken and beef. The meal ended with fruit and chocolate fondue and the chocolate was GOOD.
We also drove out toward the Icefields Parkway. My verdict: not worth the two hour drive if you’re time-constrained. Beautiful scenery, but the Icefields themselves were underwhelming relative to the effort. With five days, we’d skip it and spend more time in Banff or Lake Louise instead.
Lake Louise: Iconic for a Reason
After keeping things more budget-friendly at the Moxy, we shifted gears. We drove an hour outside of Banff and stayed for two nights at the Fairmont Chateau Lake Louise.
Lake Louise is called the “Jewel of the Canadian Rockies,” and it’s one of the most photographed natural wonders in the world. That turquoise color (caused by glacial silt filtering down into the water and the way sunlight hits it) doesn’t look real. It looks like someone turned up the saturation dial in a photo editor, except you’re standing right there in front of it, and it’s just actually that color.
The Fairmont itself is a classic grand dame hotel: traditional, storied, the kind of place that has hosted royalty. (Our campfire marshmallow guy said that Louis Hamilton and his red Ferrari has been a recent guest). The views from the resort looking over the lake and the Victoria Glacier are breathtaking. We hiked, we went canoeing on the lake, and had an excellent dinner on the balcony as the light faded over the water.
The flip side of this grand old hotel… the rooms are showing their age. Ours was on the smaller side, and the bathroom was ridiculously small. The nicks and scuffs tell the story of a well-loved, well-used classic property. If you’re expecting a modern luxury hotel experience, recalibrate. If you can embrace it for what it is – a historic mountain resort with incomparable views -you’ll love it.
A tip for Chateau Lake Louise: set your alarm for 5 a.m. Bjorn went out to catch the sunrise and reported back that a good portion of the hotel was already outside, soaking it in. That early morning light on the lake, with the glacier above and the mountains all around…it’s a moment.
What We Brought Home
We’re back in Austin now. The kids have scattered to their summer camps and adventures, and Bjorn and I are working in our offices (as compared to working at the crack of dawn, which is what we tend to do on vacation.)
What I keep coming back to is how easy it was to get somewhere that felt completely, utterly different. Five days. A not-too-long flight. A little over an hour’s drive. And we went from the Texas heat to mountain air in the 60s, from suburban life to six mountain ranges visible from a single restaurant window.
You don’t have to go far to go somewhere completely different. Sometimes you just have to head North.
Rosedale Travel can help you plan a coolcation that fits your family, your timeline, and your budget. Reach out…we’d love to help.
