Finding authentic, hand-rolled pici pasta is one of my personal Italian travel obsessions. On a recent business trip to Venice with my husband, I planned a three day autumn getaway to Tuscany driven by a deep culinary craving.
The Origin of the Obsession
My love affair with pici began years ago in Pienza, Italy. I discovered it at a local restaurant in the historic town center, Trattoria Latte di Luna, and returned on multiple trips. Finding this thick, chewy, hand-rolled pasta made the traditional way is rare in the United States. My goal was to find the best pici near Cortona, a hill town in Eastern Tuscany near the Umbrian border.
The Dramatic Autumn Landscape
Early October in Tuscany offers a stark, beautiful contrast to summer. The rolling hills swap vibrant green for deep, dramatic browns to create earth-toned vistas. Freshly plowed soil across the fields creates a multi-color aesthetic that is unique to the season.
A Renaissance Home Base: Villa di Piazzano
For this long weekend, I checked into Villa di Piazzano, located just outside the historic hill town of Cortona. This 500-year-old former hunting lodge built for Cardinal Passerini boasts a rich historic pedigree. The estate historically hosted the famous Medici family, adding a fascinating layer of heritage to the stay. Today, it offers down-to-earth luxury, combining antique-filled heritage rooms with warm, attentive hospitality. The extensive estate grounds feature a sun-soaked pool, manicured gardens, and complimentary bicycles for exploring the countryside. My culinary tour started immediately on the property, where I enjoyed an outdoor lunch on the beautiful patio of the hotel’s restaurant, Antica Casina di Caccia, and promptly ordered my first plate of pici.
Cortona Restaurants
Cortona is famous as the setting for Under the Tuscan Sun, boasting deep Etruscan roots and sweeping views of the Val di Chiana. It also happens to be a haven for pici pasta lovers. I loved these restaurants! Just make sure to book your table in advance so you don’t miss out on their unforgettable pici.
La Bucaccia da Romano is an exceptional dinner spot featuring traditional, expertly executed pici dishes and amazing tiramisu.
Osteria del Teatro provides the perfect ambient lunch or dinner location with a dedicated, high-quality pici menu and a variety of beef fillet dishes.
Trattoria Toscana is known for its Pici al Fumo, a local smoky pasta specialty featuring a rich tomato, cream, and bacon-infused sauce.
Gelateria Dolce Vita is located on Via Nazionale and positioned along the walking route to Cortona’s convenient escalators and lower car parks. It is a great idea to grab a cone after exploring the Tuscan hilltop town.
Discovering Convent le Celle
We chose to walk off the pici after our meal, but you could easily hire a taxi to visit this peaceful gem near Cortona. We hiked up the streets of Cortona through one of the ancient stone gates and began our trek toward Convent le Celle. Most of the walk is on a quiet, paved road that winds through beautiful scenery. This serene sanctuary, originally founded by Saint Francis of Assisi, is nestled in a narrow valley and offers an incredibly spiritual, peaceful atmosphere. Strolling across the historic stone bridges and wandering through rustic dwellings built right into the hillside made for a magical afternoon. It was the undisputed highlight of our holiday—second only to the pici!
Travel Advisor Tip
Hire a car/taxi to pick you up from Convent le Celle at a designated time before hiking to the convent. We were unable to hire a taxi once at the convent and had to walk uphill all the way back to Cortona.
